How to create a capsule wardrobe.

The concept of a versatile wardrobe which is formed only of key, timeless pieces you love seems like an unobtainable desire. The key to wardrobe durability is to maintain some imperfections as nothing is without a flaw. Oscar Wilde speculated in his 1885 essay "the philosophy of the dress" that "Fashion rests upon folly. Art rests upon law. Fashion is ephemeral. Art is eternal. Indeed what is fashion really? A fashion is merely a form of ugliness, so absolutely unbearable that we have to alter it every six months! It is quite clear that were it beautiful and rational we would not alter anything that combined those two rare qualities" (Wilde, 1885). Indeed, trends blossom and die quickly. In todays throw away culture the traditional seasons for clothing have changed from two to six; not including fast fashion which churns out "new styles" daily on e-commerce sites.  

To truly understand the concept of a fashion trend or fashion fad the fashion lifecycle diagram can be used (Posner, 2015).

As noted, Green indicates a fashion trend or your typical high street "new release". Between the introduction and growth stage the garment is massively adopted until it becomes mainstream in it's maturity. From here, the garments popularity drops rapidly until it is undesirable and un-fashionable (Moore, 2012) This cycle has no indefinite time frame, however, in todays throwaway culture this cycle takes at the very most 16 weeks. Whereas as indicated in purple, the fashion fad loses popularity as quickly as it gained notability. Trends such as "Tiger king or Love Island" themed merch fall into this category. Their lifecycle is so short that it's popularity has become barren within the growth stage.

A fashion basic however, is an item which never truly goes out of fashion, the object is adopted continuingly over time, partially losing popularity over a period of longevity before becoming adopted once more. Fashion Basics such as jeans fall into this category - always worn but the cut,, wash or shape alternate over decades (High-waisted straight leg in the 90s and boot leg flares in the 70s). In our current society, completely new designs are a rarity. 90% of collections take inspiration from previous decades (e.g. safari jacket was designed by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1970's based on the clothing worn by Archaeologists in the 30s and 40s. For SS/20 Dolce and Gabbana have realised an entire collection inspired by the "safari" look). In terms of fashion innovation, new fabrics and smart wear are constantly being adapted. New physical styles however are not. They are on a quick loop taking accents from different 20th century eras and alternating them to suit modern day, whether it be the shape of a skirt or a neckline. 

Due to this, staple items have withstood the test of time, items such as the little black dress and denim jackets are always in vogue in similar variants. Being able to identify key pieces that are timeless is key to building a versatile wardrobe that can be adapted to all occasions. An example of a fashion fad vs a trend would be the diamanté hair slides with phrases such as "Love" or "sexy" written on them that were briefly fashionable last summer; vs a trend being a generalised focus on slides as hair accessories that season. 

Choosing a colour palette:

This is impediment to build a wearable wardrobe. Colours used can be seasonal, I swap my wardrobe from spring/summer and then I add transitional pieces and then change my wardrobe to winter in October. 

I used to be the CEO of floral prints. Although I love prints and bold patterns I have in recent years slowly diffused them out of my wardrobe as I found I generally grow tired of them. In todays Instagram culture, I also feel reluctant to post pictures in the same bold dress whereas I can style blocked coloured garments with an efficient ease. If you are someone who is confident to clash print and be bold I would encourage the continuation of patterned purchases. If however, you're like me and wear them once or twice and grow sick of looking at them or struggle to incorporate them into many outfits then I recommend opting for embroidery or lace instead as an alternative.

I always dress very feminine. Although I see clothing itself as having neither or gender and I wear a lot of "Men's" clothing, I always style the outfit with feminine touches. In the summer I wear a lot of cotton and linen and stick to nudes/neutrals, pink and black for that summer in Italy aesthetic. Satin slips, safari shorts/jackets, straw hats, white shirts, printed scarves, sling backs and mules, prairie dresses and crotchet or lace dresses dominate my wardrobe in the summer seasons; all in neutral tones. Picking the colour Pallete is crucial so that all items can be mixed and matched. Consider the tones and their complementary colours. Revising a colour wheel may help you see what colours you have the most in your wardrobe and what colours compliment eachother. Black however, is the one colour that goes with everything.

Key fashion basics every girl should have in her wardrobe:

An Oversized Statement Blazer:

I have a fairly vast collection of blazers at this point; and I wear them for every occasion - work included. They look amazing styled with a crop top, heels and jeans, over an evening dress, paired with a casual mini skirt or as a suit for the office or a party.

The little Black Dress:

The little black dress is an item my Mum told me from a very young age that every girl needs in her wardrobe. This is a life lesson I learnt when I was 15 when my mum bought me a little black dress from a local boutique. That first dress is still in my possession today along with some other variants. Perfect for any season and ideal for the moments when you feel like you have nothing to wear on a night out or for a date. The LBD was originally created by Gabrielle Chanel in the 1920's and was initially received with great controversy for decades after. In 1926 Vogue published an illustration of a black dress styled with a sting of pearls which they marketed as "Chanel's Ford" meaning, alike the model T, it was one colour, and accessible to all. And so, ready to wear and the little black dress were born. Described as "a uniform for women of taste". Before the LBD, black was only worn when someone was in mourning. Black dresses later became a popular colour during the great depression and the second world war due to accessibility and price.  Christian Dior used black dresses in his "new look" after the war giving the LBD a chic revival. And finally, Audrey Hepburn famously wore the Givenchy little black dress in the opening scene for Breakfast at Tiffany's in 1961; making it the most famous gown in cinematic history. 

Jeans:

Investing in a core rotation of reliable denim favourites is a wardrobe decision you'll rarely regret. Denim is versatile, reliable and long-lasting. Most importantly, it's made from cotton - a natural resource. For jeans, there are a few staples every woman should own. 

1. The Skinny Jean:

The skinny jean looks fabulous dressed casual with an oversized shirt or tee and great with ankle boots or court heels. The skinny jean has been the it jean for a decade now, although the Mom/Boyfriend jean is currently the it jean to have, skinny is still in vogue. 

 2. Mom Jean or Straight leg:

Comfortable, flattering and forever on-trend, the key to wearing the mom jean is to hold out until you find a pair that fits you perfectly. Ideally with a high waist, a loose but tapered leg and a slight crop. Levis 501s have been popular since the iconic 1985 Laundrette advert, 501's are my go to jean for all occasions.

3. The bootcut:

A favourite of Brigitte Bardot in the late sixties, bootcut jeans were an alternative to the ott flares of the sixties and seventies. With the boot cut shape you get the imagery of an elongated leg due to the shape of a skinny leg on top and a minimal flare at the bottom. Like Hannah Montana said "you get the best of both worlds".

An Oversized Cotton Shirt: 

An oversized shirt is so versatile, I style mine In so many ways, whether that be tied in the front and open, completely unbuttoned as a jacket, as a traditional shirt, as a dress, over a bikini or styled underneath a crop top or bralette. A smart oversized shirt is a wardrobe must have as it can be worn in so many ways and styled infinitely. 

Investment Designer Handbag:

A luxury handbag is a solid investment. A plain bag that can be worn with any outfit and complements your wardrobe will elevate your finished look. In general, a designer handbag holds its value over time. A timeless classic will last you a lifetime such as a Chanel boy bag. The Chanel bags value increases annually and would be a solid investment. Leather handbags are ideal to have for every day as they are durable, sustainable, and can be wiped down and maintain their quality over long periods of time.

Smart Trousers:

With many thanks to Harry styles oversized and large legged trousers are immensely popular with both sexes. A well fitted pair of smart trousers can be worn in the evening and to work or casually with a blazer and crop top. I always try to purchase clothes at a mid-market price point or look for garments with a high quality that I know will maintain their image for  years as I continuously wear them. 

Basic tops and tees: 

Tees are always on trend and are so versatile and comfortable. A plain tee can be worn with practically anything. I wore a basic black t-shirt with a satin maxi skirt and heeled sandals the other day and had so many compliments for an outfit I practically threw on myself, yet looked so effortless and chic. A t-shirt can be used to dress down an otherwise smart outfit and can be tied in a multitude of ways and paired with a skirt or jeans for a everyday look. 

Basic Jackets:

The denim jacket is a classic as is the leather biker. Both have always been rivals in the fashion world since their popularity began in the 1950's. Having a classic biker is a must, as well as an oversized denim in blue and black. Safari Jackets were huge in the 1970's and have seen a resurgence on the catwalk for SS/20 and to such an extent that I ordered a vintage 70s Men's jacket on eBay which is identical to one currently being sold in Topshop. The "it" jacket of the season always changes year to year. Having the fashion basics that remain timeless is a wardrobe element that you can always rely on.

The Trench coat:

Advice for new purchases:

1. When purchasing anything new consider what you already own and ways you can style it and whether you have accompanying items in your possession. I try to visualise three ways in which I can wear an item now and if I cannot I put it back and only purchase if the item is still playing in my mind 3 weeks later. I also use a wardrobe app called Stylebook which is £4 on the app store and allows you to input images of your entire wardrobe so you can see exactly what you own and use it to help with buying decisions. My wardrobe is actually absolutely terrifying as the app also allows you to input the brand, price, material and colour to give you terrifying analytics and basically show you how bad you fall into consumerism pressure.

2. If you have an item you've never worn, barely worn or can't remember the last time it was worn, it probably never will be worn and should be sold or donated to someone that will.

3. Having a Pinterest board based on your style icons, fashion week trends, style aesthetic can help you visualise the wardrobe you are trying to manifest. Always consider your body shape compared to the shape of the garment and decide what clothing compliments you as well as clothing that you would feel confident in. Having a style board as a reference point can promote a positive consumer journey. Consider whether your style icon would wear the item. If no, then the garment isn't worthy.

References:

Guthrie, S., 2020. [online] Available at: <https://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/fashion/essential-jeans-to-own-18395> [Accessed 24 June 2020].

Horvat, K., 2017. Fashion & Literature. [online] Notjustalabel.com. Available at: <https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/fashion-literature> [Accessed 7 June 2020].

Moore, G. (2012). Fashion Promotion: Building a brand through marketing communication. 2nd ed. Bloomsbury.

Posner, H. (2015) Marketing Fashion: Strategy, Branding and Promotion. 2nd ed. Laurence King Publishing.

Wilde, O. (1885). The philosophy of dress. The New York Tribune.