Fashion week AW20 - A fashion forecast
Fashion is defined as a spectacle, as the drama of change in place of change; and would exercise its reign far beyond clothing. This season, fashion week produced a parade of key pieces for AW20. French semiologist Roland Barthes once speculated in a 1967 September issue of the French Marie-Claire that “Every year fashion destroys that which it has just been admiring; it adores that which it is about to destroy” this seasonal vendetta is something we all revel in. The fashion industry is worth 3,000 billion dollars globally (Fashionunnited.com,2020) and is constantly adapted to suit the current climate. Fashion week for AW20 ran from the 20th January in Paris for haute couture week – followed by fashion week which was from the 28th January until the 24th February.
Hundreds of collections are displayed during fashion month. The most crucial and coveted time of the year for designers. Below, is my personal fashion forecast and trend predictions for next winter.
1. Leather Trenches and pea coats:
The leather trench made a comeback this winter, many brands were producing leather coats and jackets in the style popularised in the 90s. Although this trend will continue into the summer; the new focus is on the 70s trench and 60s style pea coat. Brands such as Michael kors, Fendi, Mui Mui and Valentino sent models down the runway in varients based on the 70s trench. Maroon and blue were also popular colours amongst the sea of black and brown hues.
From Left to Right: (Lanvin AW/20, Marc Jacobs AW/20, Fendi AW/20, Isabel Marant AW/20, Celine AW/20, Boss AW/20, Louis Vuitton AW/20, Michael Kors AW/20).
2. 20th century Nostalgia:
The mod look of the sixties was apparent through many collections during fashion week. During New York Fashion week; Marc Jacobs looked to the style legends of the Upper East Side in the 1960s, in a dramatic show - choreographed by Karole Armitage, which played with an idealist homage to what New York could be again after we break the curve of COVID-19. The collection even featured a gorgeous cat-eye and fabulous beehive. On another hand, Rodarte, one of my favourite designers for feminine designs, reflected an ode to the eighties. The show was opened by supermodel Bella Hadid; completely giving me Princess Diana visiting Japan in 1986 vibes. The ready to wear collection included oversized sleeves, midi pleated skirts, oversized bucked belts and of course, lots of ruffles.
Whereas in Paris, Lanvin incorporated the styling of the late sixties and early seventies into a collection which featured a plethora of sixties pea coats, accessorised with knee high boots and sixties styled gloves and box bags.
From Left to Right: (Lanvin AW/20, Marc Jacobs AW/20, Marc Jacobs AW/20, Chloe AW/20, Fendi AW/20, Rodarte AW/20, Rodarte AW/20, Ederm AW20).
3. Red Accents:
It's not a revelation that red will be popular in the winter. After all, It's the colour most associated with Christmas festivities. For the winter of 2020, red is being used as an accent against the monochromatic - mainly though accessories. Designers alike Balenciaga, Tod's, Versace and Alexander McQueen were just a handful across New York, London, Paris and Milan which used accenting. The pop of red looks incredible contrasting against the all black looks.
From left to right: (Marc Jacobs AW/20, Miu Miu AW/20, Balmain AW/20, Valentino AW/20, Balenciaga AW/20, Tod's AW20, Versace AW/20).
4. Polka dots:
This trend has actually alarmed me; though, it works phenomenally... if you're effortlessly chic and dress alike a Parisian. This AW20 trend only made an appearance in Paris. Chloe and Givenchy, again taking inspiration from the seventies with flowing skirts and oversized collars.
From left to right: (Givenchy AW/20, Balenciaga AW/20, Rodarte AW/20, Richard Quinn AW/20, Loewe AW/20, Chanel AW/20, Chanel AW/20).
5. Saturated monocoloured ensembles:
Once again, Red was a crowd favourite, followed by all black and the colour of 2020 - pantone blue. Tailoring has been the key word for AW19 and this shall continue into AW20. The art of layering tailored items, blazers cinched at the waist, accompanied with straight jackets on top will be the look of the season. Some notable designs included Balmain, Fendi, Chanel, Prada and Off-White.
From left to right: (Alexander McQueen AW/20, Carolina Herrera AW/20, Givenchy AW/20, Max Mara AW/20, Off- White AW/20, Prada AW,20, Valentino AW/20, Dolce and Gabbana AW/20).
6. Tartan and Hound's-tooth:
I have been an avid lover of tartan for a couple of winters now, and the highland print is still standing at the forefront of fashion week. However, with an untraditional twists. Bright tartan co-ords were an apparent theme at the house of Mui Mui; Cher Horowitz eat your heart out. This trend for large colourful tartans was also evident in the house of Victoria Beckham. Whereas Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Celine sported the print traditionally.
Empowering monochrome in hounds tooth was boldly featured through the likes of the icons Chanel, Gucci and Dolce and Gabbana. All three collections took a nod to the eighties through dominating tailoring and shoulder pads.
From left to right: ( Burberry AW/20, Henrik Viskov AW/20, Miu Miu AW/20, Miu Miu AW20, Lanvin AW,20, Gucci AW/20, Lanvin AW/20, Off-White AW20, Victoria Beckham AW/20).
7. The suit:
Who doesn't love a suit? The suit appeared in ALL collections regardless; drawing heavily on tailoring with a focus on the silhouette. Notable mentions include Celine, Gucci and Chanel.
From left to right: (Alexander McQueen AW/20, Givenchy AW/20, Bottega Veneta AW/20, Alberta Ferretti AW/20, Lanvin AW/20, Miu Miu AW/20, Boss AW/20, Prada AW/20).
8. All that glitters:
As always, sequins and glitz are always en vogue for the Christmas season. The winter of 2020 however, the expectation has been further elevated. All that glitters isn't gold, it's silver too. Whilst during Milan Fashion week Donatella Versace had Kendall Jenner walk the runway in a metalic mini dress, Michael Kors had Kaia Gerber walk for them in a metalic slip skirt.
From left to right: (Miu Miu AW/20, Jw Anderson AW/20, Off White AW/20, Marc Jacobs AW/20, Michael Kors AW/20, Versace AW/20, Ami AW/20, Alberta Ferretti AW/20).
A-Z Bibliography:
Alberta Ferretti
Alexander McQueen
Ami
Balenciaga
Balmain
Boss
Bottega Venetta
Burberry
Carolina Herrera
Celine
Chanel
Chloe
Dolce and Gabbana
Ederm
Fendi
Givenchy
Gucci
Henrik Viskovi
Isabel Marant
Jw Anderson
Lanvin
Loewe
Louis Vuitton
Max Mara
Michael Kors
Marc Jacobs
Miu Miu
Off-White
Prada
Richard Quinn
Rodarte
Tod's
Valentino
Versace
Victoria Beckham
References:
Vogue.co.uk. 2020. Autumn/Winter 2020 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2020-ready-to-wear> [Accessed 15 April 2020].
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