Marie Antoinette and my day trip to Versailles.
During my time in Paris working for Zac Posen, I decided to spend my day off visiting the palace of Versailles. Marie Antoinette's life has always fascinated me. She revolutionised
the French nations' fashion choices from very basic gowns to extravagant avant-garde pieces. Her style was replicated across the western world by aristocrats and the elite. Although she also encouraged and en-ranged a revolution which resulted in the downfall of the French monarchy. She was always the epitome of extra and I was eager to see where she lived first-hand. Over 10 million people visit the palace each year. It is very clear that her life in the 16th Century still captivates the world whether it be for her inclinations towards luxury and splendour or for her and her husband's hands in the uprising of the French Revolution.
Who is Marie Antoinette?
Marie Antoinette was an Austrian princess and the last Queen of France (Chateauversailles.fr, 2020).Marie's life has always been a subject I've been drawn to. I have often found that there are very few celebrities I look at for fashion inspiration. I tend to follow my own path; weaving my own style with runway trends. This is probably one of the very few things me and Marie have in common. This, expensive taste, and a shared appreciation for lavish parties included of course.
Marie was described by her brother, Emperor Joseph II, (one of her 14 siblings) as “honest and lovable,”(Chateauversailles.fr,2020) .This reference of her character however, was not shared by most of her French court. Marie arrived at Versailles when she was 14 years old to be wed to the future French king Louis XVI. She was the youngest of 15 children by Holy Roman Emperor Francis I and the powerful Habsburg empress Maria Theresa (History.com, 2018). At the age of 14, she arrived at the French border; with only her dog as company. Upon arrival, she was stripped naked and all her possessions were taken from her, to be replaced with French equivalents. She met her future husband that day and married him the following, in front of 5,000 spectators. Her new life was abundant. She was now a French Princess and her life would never have any sense of privacy again.
Her wedding dress was the first of many of her gowns that caused scandal. The dress was silver and adorned with diamonds and featured wide panier hips. The dressmakers miscalculated her size so she had to walk down the aisle in a dress that wouldn't lace up at the back in front of thousands of people. Little did she know that her wedding dress would be the first in many that would create a scandal and fashion waves. The idea of her was far more influential than the woman herself.
In her early years she was regarded as a teen idol and party girl (Shen, 2016). It is evident that in early years she was too young for court and often sent her mother frequent letters of her home sickness.
She would often host balls and entertainment nights, regularly setting the clocks forward to trick her husband into going to bed early so she could dance and party without him late into the night (Hennesy et al, 2012). She was gentle and kind natured and adored attending the opera. She was received as a fashion idol and set many 18th century trends. She had little political power of her own, and was used as a pawn for her mother who would send her disapproving letters throughout her life.
Her marriage to Louis was turbulent. There was rumours of Louis A-sexuality, the marriage wasn't consummated for 7 years. They were polar opposites in demeneaur. Louis was introverted and indecisive. A lover of solitary pleasures such as reading; whereas Marie was vivacious, outgoing girl who loved gambling, partying and extravagant fashions. When the king went to bed before midnight, Marie Antoinette's nights of partying had yet to begin. When she woke up just before noon, he had been at work for hours (biography.com,2017). She used entertainment to escape her rigid reality.
Marie was pressured to produce heirs. She was friendless, childless and regarded by French court with mass suspicion (Hennessey et al, 2012). She turned to fashion as a form of escapism as she struggled to fit in with the French ideals of glamorous fashion. She refused to wear the whale bone corsets and would wear male garments to ride her horses much to her mothers disapproval (Hennessey et al , 2012). In 1774, Louis XVI was crowned King and Marie had all eyes on her with her new hairstyle the pouf which was an original creation by herself and her Parisian hairstylist Léonard (bellatory.com, 2019). The hair was heavily powdered and teased high above the forehead with a cluster of white ostrich feathers (Hennesey et al, 2012). They became king and Queen of France at the ages of 19 and 20.
The Queen experimented with trends and visited Paris weekly to meet with the cities most coveted designers. Thanks to Marie, France was the centre of fashion in the 18th century and demonstrated social standing (Hennessey et al, 2012). Flouncy aprons with back bustles with her hair full of gemstones, feathers and pearls were worn across England and France. All trends were set by Marie, the aprons originated from her love of dressing up in her gardens and pretending to be a milkmaid. In 1780 her provocative robe à la polonaise featured a tight fitted bodice and the back of the skirt gathered up into three separate puffed sections to reveal the petticoat below and a ankle bearing skirt (metmuseum.org,2020). This trend soon caught on within the French and English courts and abolished the wide panier skirts that less than a decade earlier, Marie had exaggerated to an extent that she struggled to fit through doors at 12ft wide (Henessey et al ,2012). She regularily debuted her style in Paris which reflected in mass adoption rates. She once even wore a small ship in her hair. Unlike her pecessors she didn't like to stay hidden in Versailles (Croll, 2014).
It was custom for the Monarchs designers to only serve them. Marie allowed her designers to remain in Paris and keep their stores. This allowed them to keep tabs on trends and for Marie to set them. She would commission a dress or hairstyle and clients would que to buy it. Antoinette allowed this providing there was a two week wait between herself wearing a garment and the general public (Croll, 2014).
Marie often craved escapism and time away from court life and her husband. In 1780, Louis had a small palace built for her in the garden where she entertained guests and her ladies in waiting. It was rare that she would invite Louis to her Petit Trianon. She would spend a lot of her time at the Petit Trianon with her son and daughter over the years. During this time she was rumoured to have an affair with Count Fersen who she loved. The rumours also claimed that her third child was his. Acording to historians, she used codes and invisible ink to conceal their love letters to ensure their secrecy (Independant.co.uk,2015). During the scandal she built the petit Hameau, a hamlet with lakes, farmland, mills, gardens and cottages. Her and her ladies would dress up as milkmaids and shepherdesses which contributed towards her nickname "madame deficit" from French revolutionaries. Due to her love of boho by the late 1780's her style had changed completely which once again caused mass anger and scandal. She adopted Anglophile fashion, ditching the heavy fabric for flowing materials. She outraged courtiers by wearing thin chemises without panniers so that the fabric would cling to her legs (Hennessy et al, 2012). The peasant girl look was completed with oversized straw brimmed hats. Condemned by court but adopted by the public. This allowed the working class to dress like the Queen of France causing upset at court. She had a simple portrait painted of her in this style by a female artist which was unheard of to do so during this time. She had strong influence and power across France.
Those who opposed her at court began to spread rumours that she was over-spending, addicted to fashion and having numerous affairs. This led to her outfits symbolising a betrayal to her people during a time when the lower classes were dying of starvation. All of Antoinette's attempts to donate food and money to her people was un- noticed compared to the rumours circulating about her. Her and Louis XVI met there fates one year apart after they were captured during the French revolution in 1792.
Marie loved her children, subjects, luxurious lifestyle and fashion more than anything. She suffered great loss in her life including the deaths of some of her children and her cruel sentence in court.
Marie Antoinette has been exalted as a pinnacle of fashion and beauty. Her wardrobe and beauty choices have been admired centuries after her death. Endless speculation about her extramarital love life and her over-spending continue to be discussed even today. Marie Antoinette's character demonstrate the tendency, as prevalent today as it was in her own time, to depict her life and death as symbolic of the downfall of European monarchies in the face of global revolution.
My day trip to Versailles:
The palace of Versailles was constructed a very long time before Louis and Marie's reign. However, it is not difficult to see why France saw their palace with actual golden gates when they were starving and decided to uprise regardless of how much or little the monarchy were spending on themselves and their subjects.
I arrived at Versailles at 9am and was surprised to see a que the wrapped the around the mass entrance alike a que into Disney world. Before I had even entered the palace I was struck by the ornate gold plated gates which towered above me.
I have always watched documentaries and read books about Marie's' life. Though nothing prepares you for the size of her holdings. Not all the palace is open to the public and yet, I had to ask for directions on several occasions. I didn't even see the entire grounds i only saw a small fraction due to the enormity.
I started my day in the court yard. The courtyard overlooked her daughters apartments and included a stunning monochrome marble floor and ornate gold rococo detailing across the roof. The court features a remarkable clock surmounted around statuette carvings. I have always adored the French rococo interior of the 17th and 18th centuries. The maximalist extravagance is breath-taking. From the courtyard, Marie's bedroom can be seen in the centre, which includes an over-looking ornate balcony and curved windows. The windows in every room went floor to ceiling letting in mass light. It's hard to imagine it today, but windows were difficult to manufacture and were therefore rare and expensive. The palace screams opulence today, however, it's hard to imagine how much more so it did during her time.
I spent the morning touring the palace whilst listening to an audio which informed me about her life and each room. I was amazed by her daughters apartment which I thought was spectacularly ornate, until I saw Marie's and Louis' bedrooms and was shocked at the difference in levels of grandeur. I learnt that one of her daughters spent her adult life at court as she was never able to marry. Marie's daughters were sent away as children to save money as their keep was too costly which devastated Marie. Louis had a portrait commissioned of them for Marie so she could see how they had grown whilst they were living away. Their eldest daughter Marie - Thérèse married wheras her second eldest (adopted) and only other surving daughter did not as they struggled to find eligable young catholic princes. Many were protistant during the era and a princess could not marry someone of a lower social standing.
By 11am I ventured to the gardens and yet again, wasn't aware of how big the grounds were. By this point; I was wondering why my map didn't have any time indication labels on them to warn you how long it would take to get from A to B. I didn't even see her miniature palace which, is apparently actually massive. I spent several hours walking around the gardens which has 55 fountains (en.chateauversailles.fr,2020) which include gold painted centre pieces of Greek gods such as Neptune, chariots, wild animals and cherubs.
The garden was full of white statues that lines the pathway towards the grand canal. I walked along the grounds feeling as if I was lucid dreaming. It was as if I was inside my own aesthetic fantasy. The sound of harps and classical music was being played across the garden. Couples could be seen in row boats on the lakes and there were even places to rent golf karts and bikes to travel the garden in. I found many groves and fountains surrounded by circular pathways which were enveloped under lattice canopies. They reminded me of those you see on period dramas that girls would use to meet their secret lovers or to gossip with a friend. The garden is truly immense. There is even an outdoor ballroom which is more dilapidated now through years of weather erosion. Its incredible to see it in person and imagine the parties that were held there. The gardens feature tennis courts, orangeries and vegetable gardens, the petit Trianon and grand Trianon, the Queens Hamlet, Lakes, Fountains, Canals and parks all across 1,976 acres (en.chateauversailles.fr,2020).
During my time in the gardens I visited the orangery for a miniature photoshoot. Believe it or not all my pictures of myself at the palace were taken with a selfie stick which doubles as a tripod. I did feel very much like the people you see on the brilliant Instagram account influencers in the wild. However, at least 80% of the tourists there had selfie sticks and I am never going to see them again so I just did it anyway.
By mid afternoon, I decided to grab some lunch and I went to a beautiful restaurant in the garden called la Flottille and ordered a delicious ham and mushroom pizza and had my first glass of wine since leaving the U.K. which was absolutely divine. Nowhere else have I had wine nicer than that in France. I wined and dined alone which is something I wouldn't do in England but is something I grew accustomed to in Paris during my stay.
By 2pm, I realised I was still in the gardens and I was yet to see Marie's bedroom. I asked a member of staff how far away the miniature palace was and after being told it was a two hour walk away I laughed my way back into the actual palace. By this point, the palace was brimming with people. The crowd was overwhelming and the noise chaotic. Tour guides could be spotted speaking a multitude of languages almost in-audible amongst the swarms in each room. Only recognisable by their coloured flags waving triumphantly towards the ceilings from their backpacks.
On my initial tour of the palace that morning I had gotten lost and missed the most breath-taking rooms. Now, I was stood in the hall of mirrors. Stood staring upwards towards the baroque painted ceiling feeling as if I was in the ballroom of Beauty and the beast. Of course, the name is pretty self explanatory. The ballroom features the tall windows, accompanied by mirrors between each, spanning the floor to ceiling. The room was abundant with ornate chandeliers and ornate panelling like something from a fairy tale. The ballroom was by far my favourite room. Coming in close second, is Marie Antoinette's bedroom.
The Monarch's apartments were in the same wing. Their massive dining room and living rooms had to be walked through before you can meet the bedrooms. The private apartment included many rooms such as several private dining rooms, a games room and a library. They spent a lot of their time in their grand dining room. French court had many rigid laws which sound so strange today even within royal houses. For instance, they were expected to eat their meals "grand couvert" which means that they would eat whilst a crowd of courtiers stood and watched them eat as it was seen as a privilage to witness.
The dining room was plastered with paintings by Charles Le Brun who painted thirty scenes throughout the palace during Louis XIV reign (en.chateauversailles.fr,2020). The room of course, also features a grand fireplace and chandeliers.
Finally, I saw Marie's gold and pink bedroom and it without a doubt - stood up to my expectations. One thing I did notice during my day was how tiny the double beds were. They look like small sofas or a single bed for a small child. Somebody today could not sleep in a bed so short without their calves and feet slipping out from under the sheets. Her bed had a canopy of silk on top and plumes of ostrich feathers at the top. The room featured an immense chandelier and ornate gold rococo moulding on the ceiling. During my audio tour, I discovered that the fabric used on the privacy screens and all furniture in the rooms including the bedding and curtains all had to match. This, was also changed to different prints seasonally. The palace changes the prints twice a year to maintain the custom to this day.
Her bedroom was full of people. It's incredible the influence she still has on society today. Her bedroom was gorgeous and ultra feminine. I was mesmerised by the beauty of the room and my entire trip. I left to depart on a train back to Paris at 5pm, only seeing a fraction of the palace. The day was truly a once in a lifetime experience. I would highly recommend that anyone staying in Paris and has a spare day should go and see the palace for themselves.
What I wore:
The weather was unusually hot for the end of September. I wore a Levis Strauss denim miniskirt accompanied by a faux leather belt from Asos which includes a super cute heart shaped belt buckle. I wore a little top with meshed polka dot sleeves which I purchased in Benidorm in July from Zara which unfortunately isn't available in the UK. I paired the skirt with a pastel baby blue over-sized blazer from the British mid-market label Sister Jane. What I love about this blazer is it's covered in iridescent gemstones. It is ultra feminine and isn't over-empowering. I managed to find a padded hairband in the same shade as the blazer on eBay for £5 which I wore with my hair down and my natural curls. My handbag was from House of Fraser and is from their house brand Linea. I also wore a pair of black satin ballet flats with tie up ribbons from Urban outfitters which are so beautiful and are so nostalgic for me as they remind me of my ballet days.
Shop my outfit:
Blazer:
Skirt:
Hairband:
References:
Biography. 2014. Marie Antoinette. [online] Available at: <https://www.biography.com/royalty/marie-antoinette> [Accessed 2 April 2020].
Croll, J., 2014. Fashion That Changed The Road. 1st ed. Prestel.
Metmuseum.org. 2020. [online] Available at: <https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84611> [Accessed 2 April 2020].
Palace of Versailles. 2020. Palace Of Versailles | Official Website. [online] Available at: <http://en.chateauversailles.fr/> [Accessed 2 April 2020].
Shen, A., 2016. Bad Girls Throughout History: 100 Remarkable Women Who Changed The World. 1st ed. Chronicle Books.
Smith, S., 2019. 10 Fun Facts About Marie Antoinette's Hair. [online] Bellatory. Available at: <https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/Marie-Antoinette-Hair-styles> [Accessed 5 April 2020].
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