Fashion Ethics and Circular Fashion: Looking through the lens towards a post COVID-19 world.
The Global Fashion Market today:
It is estimated that the average consumer spends 4% of their overall income on apparel (Sasista.com,2020) At the start of 2020, the fashion industry was estimated to be worth $1.5 trillion (Sasista.com,2020) with womenswear being the highest grossing sector within the fashion industry (Sasista.com,2020). Supply vs Demand and the theorem of fashion diffusion curated by Rogers are always in play when selling fashion to todays consumer. Renowned play right William Shakespeare wrote in Much ado about nothing that "fashion wears out more apparel than the man" (Shakespeare, 1589). The linear approach which has been the societal norm since the 1950's, cannot thrive with todays over-population; eating into finite resources due to the constant consumer demand for "newness" (Moore, 2012). All e-commerce retailers and e-tailers upload new styles daily to fit demand - all competing for market share within an oversaturated industry. Fashion fads are immediately replicated within hours and available simultaneously for purchase to the mass market. This has led to a lot of plagiarisms, law suits and a general lack of creativity and diversity amongst fast fashion. The fast fashion industry - particularity with young brands catered towards Generation Z and young Millennials all sell very similar designs. There is a lack of creativity and diversification- if something sells well, it will be replicated in a multitude of colour waves. If a garment becomes popular amongst influencers, several brands will pick it up all with the same goal - to increase the highest possible net profit. Miuccia Prada - founder of the Prada Maison famously outlined a response to fashion fads "we let others copy us. And when they do, we drop it". Theorists Raustiala and Sprigman refer to this process as "induced obsolescence", a product cycle whereby "as fashion spreads, it gradually goes to it's doom" (Eleanorrockett.com,2020), (Simmel, 1904). French semiologist Roland Barthes once speculated in a 1967 September issue of the French Marie-Claire that “Every year fashion destroys that which it has just been admiring; it adores that which it is about to destroy” (Claire, 1967). The trickle down and bubble up theories are always at play against one another within the fashion industry to this extent (Velben, 1899).
However, as the world shut down and everyone stayed at home and social distanced for the safety of all parties internationally; we have began to see a major shift in consumerism. When all one can do is go to appointments, the supermarket or for a socially distanced walk - there has been a dramatic shift in customer shopping habits. The world has become more digital than before, with demand for deliveries seeing an astronomical increase. Whereas in contrast, many small business have filed for liquidation including large multi-million pound businesses such as Debenhams, whereas some of which have fled for administration such as Warehouse and Coast (Drapers, 2020). Many brands have seen a huge drop in their sales and are as a result strategically planning their contingencies. Moreover, Burberry revealed to Drapers today that they have seen a 62% decline in full year profits whereas the mid-market retailer Urban Outfitters announced a 60% global sales decrease in their second quarter due to tepid demand.Further more, not surprisingly Primark's net monthly global sales have dropped from £650 million to zero pounds since lockdown - as all of Primark's stores internationally are shut due to the coronavirus pandemic and they still don't own a shoppable website or app in todays climate (Drapers 2020). Proving that if a brand does not keep updated with the times they will become obsolete. Alike the sailing effect ship theory, coined by W.H. Ward, which states how an existing innovation eventually becomes obsolete when in competition with the new; after a trial to engender a response aimed at improving incumbent technology (studydriver.com,2020).
For the first time in the 21st century the demand vs supply has been drastically low. It is estimated that the job crisis will lead to an international financial crisis. The fashion industry may be currently dismissed as frivolous when mirrored with the front line service industries fighting COVID-19 - the fashion industry is both a creative outlet and one of the world's most significant fiscal heavyweights (Elle.com,2020). The fashion industry's deterioration would see a serious impact on the global economy, not to mention the furloughing or unemployment status of millions of retail staff, designers, fashion communicators and many fashion and design related roles. Resulting in a lack of opportunity for the fashion graduates of 2019 and 2020.
In addition, many fast-fashion brands have strategically planned their contingencies which for most, have resulted in a large cancellation of orders. It has been noted that many fast fashion brands have cancelled orders which had partially or been fully completed without pay or compensation; resulting in environmentally damaging units of unwanted garments left abandoned with factory owners - an estimate of 982 million pieces have been disregarded (Fashionrevolution.com,2020). According to Forbes, Western fashion brands have cancelled over $2.8 billion in orders from Bangladeshi suppliers, potentially igniting a humanitarian crisis (Elle.com,2020), (Forbes.com,2020). 91% of all retailers have refused to pay for production costs. Moreover, a minimum of 1.2 million workers in Bangladesh have been impacted by order cancellations, and of the thousands of factories and suppliers who have lost their contracts: '72.4% said they were unable to provide their workers with any form income when furloughed (Forbes.com,2020). The Bangladesh textile industry is the countries economic asset, responsible for 80% of exports. Bangladesh also has some of the world’s cheapest labour, with the legal minimum monthly salary for garment workers is only $96 (Forbes.com,2020). The pandemic only proliferates the need for industry-wide, systemic, change (FashionRevolution.com,2020).
The Linear and Circular Approach to consumerism:
To fully understand fashion consumerism today, one must look at the past. For most of history, garments have been made by hand (Bellatory.com,2020) Eighty years ago, fast fashion was unheard of. Although ready to wear accessories such as hats and gloves have been available to the mass market since the 16th century clothing was not. Within the boom of the Victorian industrial revolution and the introduction of sewing machines, Men's suits, accessories and fabrics were mass produced (Bellatory.com,2020). In terms of general clothing, designers would produce two collections a year for their stores which would feature the garment in a sample size only. Your measurements would be taken and the clothing item would be made to fit the individual. All clothing items were made at home or on demand by placing a custom order with a local tailor or seamstress (readytowearclothing.com,2020).
High street customer centric shopping which focused on the consumer journey was introduced by Harry Gordon Selfridge and Charles Henry Harrod during the 1910's and revolutionised how we shop today. In the late 19th century, the department store introduced consolidating large quantities of mass produced goods for public consumption (BBC.co.uk,2010). Harry was the first department store owner to produce theatrically unique VM displays and position beauty products to the forefront of a department store. He wanted women to try the products rather than them being hidden behind a counter (Selfridges.co.uk,2020). Department stores featured huge, beautifully constructed buildings featuring restaurants, tea rooms as well as consumer goods including perfume and clothing Bellatory.com,2020). However, clothing itself was still at this time altered to fit the consumer.
In the 1910s - 1940s, women's fashion magazines often presented illustrations for clothing patterns. Many women still made their own clothes at home. Making your own clothes and custom items dwindled rapidly from the 1960's until today. The trickle down theory has always influenced style, many fashionable individuals have turned to designers, popular Parisian styles and the fashions of royalty and upper middle class for centuries.
During the golden era of capitalism in the 1950's clothing amongst other innovations began to be mass produced. Clothing and consumer goods where available on a colossal scale, accompanied by a boom in advertising and marketing. At this stage, clothing was built to last. Before ready to wear, clothing was custom made and was heavily detailed in terms of either embellishments, shape or pattern - clothing was designed for durability. The sixties was known as the pop era of consumerism. Pop Artist Andy Warhol was fascinated by the rise in consumer culture and mass production in the sixties. Many of his most acclaimed works use imagery from pre-existing commercial sources such as product packaging and photographs reproduced in the media (Tate.org.uk,2020). He stated that "you stop wanting something when you get it". His art work reflects the beginning of the throw away culture.
Gradually over the decades, cost effective production and supply chains have led to cheap construction and garments that lack the quality and uniqueness of clothing made sixty years previous. Furthermore, the adoption of plastic for accessories, toys and household items boomed in the 50s/60s production costs lowered dramatically, paving the way for the mass production of household plastic items (Plastikcity.co.uk,2020). Due to the adoption of fast fashion business models, industry sectors involved in the fashion supply chain pursue low-cost production techniques and source their materials from markets overseas, which continue to cause colossal environmental harm. This is called the linear approach were things are no longer built to last but focus on visual aesthetics only to engage consumers to what is "new" feeding the throw away culture in which items either lose desirability or break and are disposed of rather than repaired. This throw away model is also referred to as the materials economy.
Our planet runs entirely on finite resources (Mearthur,2011). The global fashion industry relies on the exploitation of natural resources and unfair labour within the supply chain. Overconsumption has led to more supply than needed and excessive wastage. The current prevailing business model is driven on exponentially more clothes than people need (Fashionrevolution.com,2020).The current situation will only get worse. Consumer class will grow from 3.5 billion in 2017 to 5.6 billion by 2030 (theworldcounts.com,2020). With such an acceleration in the worlds population, according to NASA; complete deforestation will occur within the next 80 years whilst there will be no water left on earth by 2040 (theworldcounts.com,2020).
The solution to the linear approach is simple yet is ignored due to less profitability for businesses. The circular approach follows a path of complete renewal where items are built to last, and are either repaired, upcycled or re-sold or recycled with the sole goal to redefine growth.To become circular, the fashion industry needs to make fundamental changes in three key areas: product design, infrastructure and business models (Voguebusiness.com,2020).
Ways to be more circular:
Many companies business plans are based upon circularity such as brands that allow consumers to rent occasion wear for events in order to stop consumers buying an evening gown that is worn once for an event and then forgotten. Brands such as Rent the runway, by rotation and Onloan which offer a range of luxury to mid-market clothing and accessories at an accessible price point. Companies like Depop, Etsy and Ebay allow you to purchase and sell unwanted clothes. 85% of all clothing ends up on landfills; with 300,000 tonnes of clothing going to landfills every year in the U.K. alone.£140 million of clothing is sent to landfills globally each year (fashionrevolution.com,2020). Activist and actress Céline Semaan once stated that "Everything we make returns to the Earth as either food or poison". According to Fashion Revolution, 60% of garments are now made from polyester, a percentage which has doubled since the year 2000 (Fashionrevolution.com,2020).
Plastic is the source of many sustainability issues. It takes a garment which contains plastic 1,000 years to bio-degrade. The plastic fibres break off into the air and soil which kills wildlife when digested. Polyester and Acrylic produce plastic based micro-fibres which need 342 million barrels of oil each year in order to manufacture. The plastic microfibres are microscopic and constantly shed when the garment is worn or even touched. These microfibres are all around us hidden from the naked eye. Up to 700,000 of these fibres come off our clothes during a wash in the washing machine where they are carried directly to the ocean where it is ingested by oceanic life (FashionRevolution.org,2020). 80% of all plastic in the ocean is from our clothes (Fashionrevolution.com,2020). Research suggests that 50% of all sea turtles have ingested plastic. (bbc.co.uk,2018) one in five turtles die from plastic poisoning with young turtles at higher risk (bbc.co.uk,2018). By purchasing clothing made from natural or mostly raw materials, you can reduce your contribution towards plastic pollution in the ocean. In addition, brands such as Guppyfriend sell wash bags that reduce fibre shedding in the wash.
The fashion industry is the second most pollution industry after oil. All garments use mass amounts of natural resources. It takes 1,800 gallons of water to make one pair of jeans. 85% of all water used in the clothing industry is used to wash clothing dye, which is dumbed in streams which are used by villagers in third world countries to drink.1.3 trillion gallons of water is used each year to dye clothing (thefashionlaw.com,2019).
Consumers are influenced by what other consumers are influenced by and wearing (Rath et al 2015). The social impact theory suggests that the probability of influence increases depending on the number of people involved and the importance of the influencers (Rath et al, 2015). There are currently several fashion ethics organisations that work to promote the damaging effects of the fashion industry, including the fur industry. Fashion Revolution promotes the impact of fast fashion and organises protests globally (fashionrevolution.org,2018). Fashion for good has created an online platform through social media to address fast-fashion issues (fashionforgoogd.com,2018). The organization the Ellen Mcarthhur foundation have an Instagram account targeted at a younger audience to develop awareness of our current fast-fashion cycle.
In terms on the crisis in Bangladesh there is a charity called Lost Stock which have started the Lost stock initiative in which you pay £35 for a mystery box of clothing which is tailored to your age, gender and style preferences. The box contains at least 3 items worth 370 or more and the proceeds support Bangladeshi workers who have lost their jobs or income. One box financially supports a worker for one week. Products arrive to you within 6-8 weeks and is such a wonderful cause to participate in.
The demand for transparency and brand green washing:
There is an increased market demand for fair trade and organic products and traceability of raw materials (Grose,2012). According to Mintel, Generation Z and young Millenials want brands to be transparent with their product pipelines (Mintel,2020). Since 2019, there has been a massive growth and demand for transparency. Luxury brands have always been open about their product lines as typically their garments are still made in house and often by hand. However, to keep in line with competitors, fast-fashion e-tailers and retailers have been following suit on the new trends for sustainability. In some cases, this has led to green washing. This is when a brand or organisation "cop-out sustaibability narratives to portray an environmentally responsible image or action" (entrylevelactivist.com,2020). Often a brand will market a product as "sustainable" to manipulate customers into beliveing the brands value chain is ethical, leaving their other irresponsible supply chain decisions hidden, thus tricking the consumer into believing they are buying into a responsible brand. As a consumer myself, who recently noticed that the fast fashion brand "nobody's child" had advertised a "vegan sustainable jumper" on their e-marketing. Upon emailing customer services as to what made the product sustainable as the garment was made out of 100% Acrylic, the most pollutiong man made fabric in existence; the response received was that the product was sustaibable because "It was made in the UK. and therefore no greenhouse gases have been transported to deliver the product and was therefore made in a sustainable way" baffling.
The planet since COVID:
The only benefit to the pandemic has been the positive impact it has had on the environment. Venice has seen clear canals and dolphins return whereas wales has seen sheep roaming the villages. Most shockingly, Blackpool has seen clear Oceans whilst France has had a report of lowered emissions by 72% whereas China has had a emissions lowered by 25% with an overall international emission decrease of 17% (Nationalgeographic.com,2020). Whether brands will strategize a new approach towards their product pipeline remains uncertain. Some luxury brands such as YSL have announced they will no longer follow the fashion week calendar and will produce collections when they want (Refinery29.com,2020).This may indicate that other luxury brands follow suit. It is unclear what the future holds for sustainability.
Instagram Accounts to follow for fashion sustainability:
Fashion for good: https://www.instagram.com/fashionforgood/
Fashion Revolution: https://www.instagram.com/fash_rev/
Global Fashion Agenda: https://www.instagram.com/GlobalFashionAgenda/
Copenhagen Fashion Summit: https://www.instagram.com/CopenhagenFashionSummit/
Entry Level Activist: https://www.instagram.com/entrylevelactivist/
Slow Fashion Season: https://www.instagram.com/slowfashionseason/
Slow Fashion Memes: https://www.instagram.com/slowfashionmemes/
Diet Prada: https://www.instagram.com/diet_prada/
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